The different shades of blue, rippling with the waves under the hot summer sun, in view from the balcony of a coastal town that has been favoured by the Gods because of its beauty. On the list of UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, the Amalfi Coast is nothing short of perfect. With its location in the Mediterranean, the Southern Italian Peninsula’s warmth is ever true with the welcoming atmosphere and the friendly locals so used to the bustle of visitors in their hometown. After so much planning, I with four of my friends finally got to experience the Amalfi Coast this summer for my birthday, truly a dream come true.

We chose to stay in the quiet little town of Sorrento which is accessible to both the Capri Island and the rest of the Amalfi Coast. Here we watched our first day draw to a close, walking down the scenic Via Luigi de Maio going to the harbour under a pastel-coloured sky. We also met an Italian lady making handmade mozzarella, olive oil and Limoncello, a locally made liquor from lemon peels. Because of this town’s accessibility, its growing popularity made it a destination in itself and a hub for those planning to discover more places nearby like Naples and Pompeii.

Our expedition started on our way to the town of Amalfi, the most popular town out of the thirteen municipalities that make up the Amalfi Coast. This is definitely the most picturesque coastal drive that I have ever experienced, and rightfully so with its sweeping views and exhilarating cliffs that has always inspired fictional tracks for racing games. It is not for the faint of heart for a driver though, this narrow road can only accommodate exactly two bus widths at a single time, that I can’t help but be impressed at those who are courageous and focused enough not to fall off the edges. The end of the route is well worth as a reward with its postcard perfect landscape that I thought I can only ever see in a picture. In Amalfi, time seems to be sailing away and it seems as if a day is never enough to bask in its beauty. The centre of the Amalfi town is the Piazza del Duomo, where you will be captivated by Cattedrale di Sant Andrea designed in combination of Baroque, Arab-Byzantine, Norman, Gothic,and Renaissance styles.

Equally wondrous is the town of Ravello, located steeply above the hills of Amalfi, where the artists, writers, and musicians historically used to escape, such a shame we haven’t made it there, and instead spent our time in the nearby towns such as Atrani, Furore and Praiano. Atrani is another town only seven minutes away from Amalfi centre. A little less crowded and with a more traditional character, it is the smallest municipality in Italy, and is located in a valley between two hills. Furore on the other hand is a town that has become popular because of the coastal inlet where it was particularly located, and which is known as a cliff diving competition spot. It had been pouring that morning we went there, and it is certainly visible in the mud-stained water underneath its cliffs so we haven’t considered jumping. Even so, I still appreciated its fine view. A few minutes away is a cove called Grotta dello Smeraldo, located between Furore and Praiano. Its name means the emerald cave in English, because of the green light that floods the cave at daylight, reflecting the colour of the water into the stalagmites. We ended the amazing day by watching the sunset while sipping granitas in Praiano. A town away from Positano, it is best seen at the golden hour where the sun sets behind the hills at the coast directly in front of you, like in a painting. The beat of EDM made it more appealing for the younger tourists spending the night here, partying at the seaside.  

We had the best brunch view the next day in Hotel Marincanto.With its iconic enclave, pastel-coloured and layered villas, one would truly be mesmerized at the beauty that is Positano. Even the renowned writer John Steinbeck once wrote “Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone”. It is once a poor fishing village believed to be named after the God of the Sea, Poseidon. Until it has become the place where even the rich and famous dream to settle. It is to no question, the most charming a town can be. When you walked along the maze of the street to the spiaggia grande and bathed under the summer sun in its pebbled beach, you can truly say that life is sweet. At the golden hour, as its villas start to light up, Positano becomes more alive with people,enjoying the ocean breeze, wine in hand with stories shared with their companions. At night, with the calm sea reflecting the bright moonlight, this place is still a dream, so peaceful and vivid you would hope to have at the back of your mind continuously.

We sailed early on my birthday for the island of Capri, off the coast from the docks of Nerano. The rough waves, the soft wind and the morning sunshine as well as the mist of seawater you can almost taste made the short voyage special. Once in Capri, we took the tour to the historical town centre where the high-end boutiques line up the path towards the monastery and the gardens built by Emperor Augustus, who once called this island his private paradise. Since then, Capri has been the island of the rich and wealthy. After the emperors, people of nobility kept flocking to Capri to build their villas, taken by its elegance. Until now, affluence seems to be synonymous to this island as it hosts important events in the fields of film, art and culture. Higher up its cliffs is the town of Anacapri, where the Seggiovia di Monte Solaro is built to reach the peak of the island. Not for those who have fear of heights, this chairlift that continuously move in its mechanism will take you to the best view possible atop the cliffs after a 12-minute ride. The Villa San Michele and the Belvedere also boasts of breath-taking views never to be missed on your tour around this sophisticated place.

After exploring Capri from its midst, we sailed around it to see its true greatness from the perspective of the waves. The magnificent rock formations and each of its grottoes named after the colours they are known for, filled our relaxing afternoon at sea. The natural arch, the lighthouse and the private villas that can be seen around the island drew our attention. But the highlight of the boat trip is the moment that we passed underneath the Faraglioni. At first glance, I thought that the massive yacht would not fit the hole, but we made it to the other side with a few inches to spare. The day ended with singing and chanting as we went on with the cruise back to Nerano with our highly entertaining host named Giovanni who sang to us a couple of songs and shared his stories between the gush of the waves and the afternoon breeze.

We made the most of our last day by relaxing in our villa, brewing our own espresso and munching on bruschetta under the lemon tree, sharing stories of how fast has time been while we are on this memorable holiday. In the afternoon, we brought souvenirs in the cute little shops leading to the beach and took one final dip until the sun has set on us. This is indeed one for the books. Which for me is the most memorable holiday to date. Indeed, the tides has its way of changing us.

Tips:

The best season to be in Amalfi is of course in summer between the months of June to September when the water is temperate and the sun is expected to shine almost every day. However, reservations can really go over the roof in these months, that’s why it is recommended that you should book well in advance of your dates to leave you with more options. Accommodations in Capri and Positano tend to be the most expensive options, but also the most picturesque and accessible. You can consider hotels or villas in Atrani and Praiano as good locations as well, if not in Sorrento, if you’d like to opt for a budget-friendly stay.

The nearest airport you can fly from on your way to Amalfi is the Naples Capodichino Airport. You can also come from Rome like how we did,via the Fiumicino. You can then travel from Rome to Naples through the Trenitalia Freciarossa train that departs from Termini or Ostiense, and continue your journey from Naples to Sorrento through the Circumvesuviana, and finally take a bus to Amalfi. Or also, for a faster and easier travel, take a taxi in Naples that would take you straight to your accommodation.

There are ways to get around the Amalfi coast. The cheapest option is taking the bus that brings you to the coastal towns without the hassle within 24 hours for just €10. If you consider yourself as a good driver, you can also rent a car from any location and take the scenic drive. Just remember that parking can be really tricky and fees are expensive especially in the peak season. Also, as I have mentioned, the winding, cliff-edge road can be very stressful and may spoil your holiday vibe if you are not used to driving in this kind of terrain.

The best way to see the Amalfi coast is probably from a yacht. Boat tours go around Amalfi, Positano, Sorrento and Capri on a daily basis. But on the busy months, you will have to book your tours ahead for you not to miss the chance. There are a lot of boat tour companies on site especially in Positano, and you can also book them online. We have done the one from Nerano to Capri with the help of our host in Casa Nunziatina, the most welcoming Pascual who had booked it all for us. The tour costs €65 which includes the transfer to and from our villa and Nerano marina, the sail to and from Capri island and Nerano and the tour around Capri and Anacapri. The bus tour within Capri island is excluded and costs €22 which I think is also worth it because you won’t have to worry about getting around yourself and getting lost, plus it takes you to the most important locations straight away.

The rich produce of the Amalfi coast is celebrated in their culinary offerings. The tangy olives, the freshly made mozzarella, the limoncello and granitas from the lemons, the sweet tomatoes and the catch of the day can easily make their way on your palate and imprint a memorable taste that would take back memories of your beautiful days. Make sure to try the several ways they cook pasta with the seafood, or even the plain pomodoro. Taste the origins of authentic pizza Napoli, with a selection of toppings and its thicker crust. And of course, end it all sweetly with a gelato of your favourite flavour in a cone.

Keep in mind, while basking under the sun, the age-old Italian adage, dolce non far niente, which translates as sweet idleness or the sweetness of doing nothing. Take your days slowly in relaxation and just admire how gorgeous this place is.